If I could go back to one village tomorrow, it would be Cucuron. We had an unhurried lunch at Le 20 Gourmet on the Place de l'Étang — the same square where Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard have their dinner date scene in A Good Year, a black-and-white film flickering over the water. The bassin is real, and so are the enormous plane trees ringing it, throwing a deep shade that makes you want to stay for hours. Our guide told us that when the film came out, the village set up a screen over the water and showed it right there in the square. We had a date with a vineyard after lunch, but next time I will take time to wander its narrow lanes and explore its artisan workshops and galleries.
Roussillon is the one I’d go back to next — tiny, quiet, red ochre everywhere, and home to some of our favorite shops of the week.
Which brings me to the shopping. The clothes in the village markets and smaller shops are better made and far more affordable than you'd expect. Linen is the local uniform, along with the white eyelet tops, skirts, and dresses you see everywhere, plus straw hats and bags. St-Rémy, Roussillon, and Lourmarin have my favorite clothing, accessories, and shoe shops. But for real bargains — and to skip the Saturday crowds — go to Aix-en-Provence on a Tuesday or Thursday between 8am and 1pm, when the clothing and accessory stalls line the Cours Mirabeau.
One insider tip: there are no dressing rooms. Wear a loose dress so you can try things on underneath.
