We ate our fair share of traditional tagine in Morocco — how could we not? But we also had some wonderful French meals and found ourselves at tables serving modern takes on Moroccan cuisine that completely surprised us.
One of my favorite dining experiences was Dar Roumana in Fez. Their tagline — "beyond couscous and tagine" — tells you everything you need to know. I'd spotted it in Condé Nast Traveler months earlier and tucked it away as the perfect dinner for our first night in Fez, after the long drive from Marrakech. I knew everyone would want to stretch their legs, and getting there requires a stroll through the medina.
The entrance is completely nondescript. You'd pass it without a second look. Then you step through the door and find yourself in an oasis — a former riad with soaring ceilings and walls of intricate tilework, tables tucked into cozy alcoves around the edges. Ours were right in the center.
The staff was warm and attentive, the food was beautiful, the wine was superb, and the conversation flowed the way it only does when everyone's finally landed somewhere lovely after a long day. The perfect first evening in Fez.
I loved discovering this one, and I can't wait to go back next year.